Lithuania
Last Updated : 02/10/10 |
t
took us 5 years of waiting but, eventually, we got there!
The final push we needed to go was the opening of several bars in Vilnius selling the massively rare (and fascinating!) "farmhouse" beers from the north of the country (Kaimiškas in Lithuanian) which, only a few years back, you needed to wander around villages in the North asking where to find the stuff! It seems as if there's a surge of interest in craft beer in Lithuania which, considering the recent surges of micro brewers in the Czech Republic and now Poland and Slovakia, isn't really that surprising.
I probably won't be doing a trip report as I don't have the time these days but I have done a Google map and will add a list of the bars here complete with all the information you need to find them and, hopefully, work out what you're drinking... and this isn't always that easy!
Vilnius
An interesting city with one of most fascinating and improving beer scenes anywhere at present, serious Euroscoopers really need to get themselves out here! I'll list the bars and brewpubs we did then the ones we didn't have time to do...
Alaus Namai (“Beer House”), Alberto Goštauto gatvė 8.
Open Mon-Wed 12:00-00:00, Thu-Fri 12:00-05:00(!), Sat 15:00-05:00,
15:00-23:00 Sun.
Trolleybus 7 from station to Pamėnkalnio gatvė, a few blocks South of bar,
or Trolleybus 10 from Sparta (w of station) to Kražių, 50m from bar.
Cellar
bar with 16 Lithuanian beers on tap and bottle including
at least two "Kaimiškas" farmhouse brews. The
food is traditionally Lithuanian - cheap and very good - the atmosphere is
lively yet with a palpable beery appreciation, and it's almost all locals in
there! Find this amazing bar on the South bank of the river close to
the "white" footbridge. Highly recommended, one of the best scooping
bars for many miles and one of my favourite bars in Europe. The
list of beers isn't 100% up-to-date so check the fonts yourself... and if
you ask you should be able to get half-pints to enable more winners to be
had! Some English spoken although, obviously, this depends on the
staff. Try the Kepta Juoda Duonelė, black rye bread fried with
garlic... delicious!
Bambalynė, Stiklių gatvė 7.
Closes at 22:00.
In centre of the old town and therefore hard to reach by public transport,
Trolleybuses 1,2,5,7,20 to Trakų are your best option.
Cellar bar and beer shop with lots of Lithuanian bottled beer in a vaulted
brick cellar which gives a very atmospheric and relaxing atmosphere.
The range of beer is good and prices not too bad for the location plus the
plate of cheeses went very well with the bottled beer! No draught
beer, only bottles, which you choose yourself from the fridges then pay for
at the small counter... unusual but highly recommended!
Bermudai,
Upes 6. Open until midnight daily and later Fri-Sat.
Find the bar through down the stairs in the bowels of the "white" footbridge
facing the river on the north bank of the river. You'll see it walking
across from Alaus Namai.
Wide selection of local brews for 4,5 litas/500ml although the list isn't as
interesting as Alaus Namai. Still, some good brews on tap and it's
cheap, too, although if there is any music on this may change your opinion
of the place! Recommended, especially owing to it's closeness to Alaus
Namai. The beer list in English isn't up to date although the
Lithuanian one is... if in doubt, check the fonts!
Šnekutis,
Stepono gatvė. 7. 12:00-22:00 Mon-Sat, Sun closed.
Close to "Stotis", the main rail station, and therefore easily reached by
train, trolleybus or bus. Only ten minutes' walk from the old town.
Run by the same family as the sister pub in Užupis only this one is by the
old town, by the station, and has a more usual layout/design and a smaller
choice of beers with "only" 11 fonts! The bloke with the bizarre
facial hair is generally behind the bar and speaks only a few words of
English although a smattering of Lithuanian phrases and some pointing worked
for us. The basic food is good although it's the choice of beers which
will impress you with at least three from "Kaimiškas" farmhouse
brewers and the rest from small Lithuanian brewers. Highly
recommended.
Būsi Trečias, Totorių gatvė
18. Open daily.
In the old town area close to Prie Katedros and therefore easily reached on
foot. Trolleybuses 2,3,5,6,12,14,15 stop close by at Jogailos
gatvė.
Brewpub in the tourist area with a brewery in the cellar. Has two
rather basic public bars and function room upstairs used for live music and
banquets. Aimed squarely at tourists not locals and the beer wasn't up
to much when we visited, but there are three on and they're worth a go...
and all winners!
Prie Katedros, Gedimino
Prospektas 5. Open Mon-Wed 10:00-00:00, Thu 10:00-01:00, Fri
10:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00
Smack on the main thoroughfare and shopping street of the old town close to
Vilniaus
gatvė trolleybus stop.
Large basement brewery-restaurant just up the road from the Cathedral.
It's main thrust is at trade from visitors rather than locals although
prices aren't too excessive and, if you're short on time, they do a tasting
tray of their three beers! They also brew gira, low-alcohol beer
similar to kvass.
Bravaria, Ozo gatvė. 25. From 10:00 to late, closed Sun,
situated in the Akropolis shopping centre.
Take bus 53 (dir. Fabijoniškės) from station to Šeškinės kalvos.
You'll pass the huge monstrosity that is the Akropolis shopping centre on
your right, so cross the very busy road, follow the path left for 100 metres
then use the tunnel and path across the carpark to reach the shopping
centre. Once inside, head right approximately halfway along
(there are signs) and the brewpub is upstairs.
Large German-themed brew-restaurant within the huge out of town altar to
tacky capitalism that is the Akropolis shopping centre. I'm not quite
sure if this place is supposed to be imitating a German beer experience but,
if so, the beers taste very un-German! Four brews on sale with the
"premium" the best tasting like a Polish Jasne!
Gyvo Alaus Krautuvėlė, 16 Konstitucijos prospektas. Daily 10:00
– 22:00
By Europos aikštė Trolleybus stop (8,9,19) but nothing direct from city
(although bus 43 from station is direct).
Beer shop in the VCUP shopping centre on the ground level (called 1st floor)
near a decent coffee shop. Around 20 traditional Lithuanian beers,
most in 50cl or 1 litre bottles, for around 4 LVL and even real Gira
(kvass)!.
Places we didn't visit but sound worth a look...
Apple Pub, Šnipiškių gatvė. 3.
North of river by Bermudai.
Bar with a large range of beer which, despite lots of crap, has some stuff worth drinking!
Šnekutis, Polocko gatvė. 7A.
10:00-22:00 Mon-Sat closed Sun.
Bus 11 goes along
the road outside from Islandijos occasionally, or it's not that far to walk
from the centre.
In the self-proclaimed "republic" of Užupis. Small, rustic, single-room, but with outside drinking, eating and smoking areas. Basically a family-run recreation of an old Lithuanian farmstead that sells an ever-changing range of Lithuanian beers from micro, independent and home brewers ie farmhouse beers or Kaimiškas through its 12 fonts.
Belmontas, Belmonto gatvė. 17.
Open daily from 12:00
Bus 13 goes to Žemasis Pavilnys which isn’t that far away… but hardly any buses!!!
A brewery producing "live beer" somewhere within the huge "Belmontas entertainment and Recreation Centre"; 7 different restaurants/bars. However it is a little way out of the city, to East, with no buses!
Others worth a look...
Užupis
Stopkė, Užupio 2a. Bohemian arts and exhibition space, club, venue, gathering place. Serves Aukštaitijos bravorų "Kanapinis" craft beer on tap. Bus 10,11,33 to Užupio
Tores, 40 Užupio gatvė. Craft beer from Biržai brewery (here rebadged Tores) served on tap. Close to Šnekutis.
By Station
Molinis Ąsotis, Naugarduko 32. Honey beer Lotos from Viktoriškių craft brewery served on tap. W of station, close to the big Sparta interchange.
Taurinigis, Sodu 23. Rinkuskiu beer on tap and bottled available here. By shack and hotel Panorama.
Alaus baras, Pylimo gatvė 60. 3-4 sorts of country-style beers from Pakruojo Davra brewery served in this cheap local bar near the station.
B6, Bazilijonų gatvė 6. Serves two "Biržų Alus" craft beers on tap. Near station.
Bix Baras, Etmonu 6. Not far N of B6, rock bar with decent beers apparently… look if passing.
Old Town
Chillout, Pylimo 8. .This bar with strange interior serves Raudonuju dobiliuku brew on tap. Near Islandijos TB stop.
Transilvanija, 22 Totorių. Pub favoured by sports watching students, rich metalheads and ex-pats, serving Czech beers, Warsteiner, Veltins, Guiness, Hoegarden and from recently some local jewels (Varniuku, Raudonuju Dobilu) on tap. Almost next door to Būsi Trečias.
Pilies menė, 8 Pilies. Unique Lithuanian craft lager from Kauno Alus brewery on tap. In old town.
Further out
Aula, Ozo g.18. Butautų 'Dvaro' and Kupiškėnų 'Pivorių' craft beers on tap. Trolleybuses 7,8,18 to Kaukaro st (at jct to SW), 7 goes from Stotis (Station).
Kaunas
Avilys, , Vilniaus gatvė 34.
15:00-00:00 daily.
On the main street, you can't miss it!
Quite posh brew-restaurant with basement public bar much like Prie Katedros in Vilnius that I used to be the
original Avilys. The downstairs bar does not open until 15:00.
Belmontas, Belmonto gatvė. 17.
Assume all day, daily.
Bus 13 goes to Žemasis Pavilnys which isn’t that far away… but hardly any buses!!!
Large German-themed brew-restaurant again within a
Akropolis shopping centre just a short stroll from the main tourist area.
The only big difference from the one in Vilnius is that here you can have
good views of the skating rink whereas there is handier for the cinema.
Sadutė,
Rotušės 4.
On the main square at the end of the main
street, with the churchy thing in the middle. it's down some steps but
pretty well signed.
Nice cellar bar which I think is a posh restaurant first but also seems to
allow you in to admire the brickwork and drink the massively rare beers
from Jovarai/Pasvalys
brewer A. Grigonis.
Others worth a look...
Jums, Laisvės alėja 61, Cafe-bar which xerves Būtautų craft beer in bottles, pale and dark
Kauno Alus, Savanorių prospektas 11. Traditional lager brewery in the heart of Kaunas. There was a bar just past the brewery but this seems to have closed; any gen welcome, we didn't see the beers anywhere else in town!