Last Updated :01/11/09
e've just returned from a most productive trip to Wrocław where, as well as the stuff referred to by Helen here, we did a spot of proper beer hunting and unearthed what I think is the best scooping bar I've discovered for quite a while although, sadly, the beers on offer were Czech and not Polish! Ah well... scoops is scoops!
Spiż, Rynek 9. Open from 10:00 daily. ()
On the south-west corner of the Ratusz, you can't really miss the signs and front door!
Poland's original new-wave brewpub which is now also part of a chain. It has an enviable location in the cellars of the Ratusz (town hall) and possesses a very Czech vibe although the beers are as Polish as they come.
Academus, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 23. Open 12:00-01:00 daily. ().
On the touristy street of Kiełbaśnicza almost opposite the even more touristy street of Jatki (the one with the brass farm animals at the other end).
Bar with micro beers from Amber and Ciechan although it's all a bit tourist-oriented. The beers on tap are the only reason to go in and, helpfully, there's a board outside listing what's on!
Bierhalle, Rynek-Ratusz 24-27. ()
On the opposite side of the Ratusz from Spiż, you can't miss it. Honestly, you can't.
Bar in the cellar of the Rynek and other bits scattered around the building including a restaurant upstairs which is part of a national chain and I think the beer here comes from Katowice. I'm 99% certain it doesn't brew, but there's always the chance it does... Mark Enderby also reports the beer comes from Katowice so that's that sorted, then!
Český Ráj, Wojciecha Bogusławskiego 9. Mon-Thu 12:00-00:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-?, Sun 15:00-00:00. ()
Take a tram to Arkady (most routes call there at some point!) and head south towards the railway viaduct. When you reach it, follow the arches to the right-hand side of the road (where Pub 55 is) and follow the viaduct for 100 metres or so. Not where you'd expect to find a classic scooping bar but it's there alright!
Superb little bar in a railway arch, by far the best in a road with more than it's fair share of decent bars. They serve eight (!) Czech beers on tap and, amazingly, they are mainly from micro-brewers with the remainder from the likes of Svijany and Krakono. Sociable staff, reasonable prices and they know what scooping is too; when Kocour pale ale ran off, the barmaid alerted me to the new beer on tap (which was a scoop!). Now, all they need are some Polish micros on tap too! A superb little bar, highly recommended, the name means "Czech (or Bohemian) paradise" alluding to the Czech beers on offer!
Just in case you don't believe me how good this place is, how's this for a tap selection: Rychnov Minipivovar Zilvar 10° and Kněna 12°, Dobruka Staročeský Rampuák 12° Kvasnicový, Krakono 12° Kvasnicový, Svijany Kněna, Kocour Pale Ale, Náchod Primator Peničné and Ů Huků Běleč nad Orlicí CAR Kvasnicový. Not bad, eh?
Wagon Club, Pl. Orląt Lwowskich 20a. ( - for the bar rather than the beer range!)
Take trams 0, 15 or 74 to Pl. Orląt Lwowskich and the old station is to your right. Walk along the right-hand side of the station (as you look from the front) and, as you reach the far end, you'll see the sign and coaches in the station. The cellar bar is down some steps right at the end of the buildings.
In the old Dworzec Świebodzki (Freiburger Bahnhof) station, complete with resident (stuffed) kettle, this bar comprises of a cellar music venue and, in the old station itself, two redundant carriages converted into a bar. Bizarre, and well worth a look for a most unusual drinking experience plus they sell bottles of Svijany and maybe other Czech beer too! Probably no scoops but it's one unusual place...
Additional bar gen.
There are some decent bars along Wojciecha Bogusławskiego which is a line of rail arches containing trendy bars and eateries just west of the station (tram stops Dworzec Głowny or Arkady) and, bizarrely, most eschew Polish micros in favour of Czech beers from smaller brewers including Svijany and Rohozec. See the full entry for the superb Český Ráj at Bogusławskiego 9 but a few others that caught my eye were;
Pub 55, just along from Český Ráj where Bogusławskiego crosses Swidnická. Svijany and Rohozec.
Kuźnia, Bogusławskiego 81. Rohozec beers.
Armine, Bogusławskiego 83. Litovel.
Lamus, Bogusławskiego 95-97. Primator and unpasteurised Krakono.
101 Piw, ul. Legnicka 27a. ()
Bottle shop opposite Młodych Techników tramstop just west of the main "ring" line on routes 10 & 22 (Leśnica), 3, 12 & 23 (Pilczyce) or 20 (Wrocławski Park Przemysłowy). Go down the underpass, turn left, right at the end up the steps, and the shop is on your left a few metres away (see picture below).
Beer shop with an impressive range of beer, especially for Poland! The best fridge for scoops (Kormoran, Ciechan plus some other Polish, Ukranian and Czech scoops) is at the back at the right.
Piwoszek, ul.Dworcowa 4. ()
Almost where the moat (Podwale) joins Dworcowa, not far from the airport bus stop and rail station.
Yet another beer shop, but this one is a right step back in time with a tiny entrance area and lines of empty bottles on the counter which the sociable owner will fetch for you! Not a load of scoops but we picked up three with a few more as possibles had we been more desperate!
Piwosz, Stefana Żeromskiego 22.
Close to Jedn. Narodowej tramstop (currently closed).
Apparently a decent beer shop, we were foiled by the temporary closure of the tram route!
Piwosz, Księdza Norberta Bonczyka 2.
Near to Broniewskiego tram (1,7)
Another beer shop, no gen!
Browarek, ul. Szczesliwa 12.
Close to Pereca tramstop, 4,5,11,20 plus others (line temporarily closed).
Another shop, and due to track works yet another we couldn't get to!!
Drink Markt Piwniak, ul.Szwedzka 15b
Way out in the west.
A log way out, this one, included for completeness only... we didn't get there!
Being a tourist destination there are loads of posh non-Polish options available, however there's only one place to eat when in Poland and that's in a Bar Mleczny! "Milk bars", as they are affectionately known, are a hangover from Soviet times and provide basic staples at cheap prices. These days they are facing increasing competition from multinational shite-peddlers which draw in the youth with lurid colours and gaudy interiors but it is in the milk bars that you'll find a true taste of old Poland.
Pierogi is a kind of ravioli although it can be baked as well as boiled. Ruskie is made with mashed potatoes mixed with curd cheese and fried onions often covered in bits of fried lard and usually boiled whilst "z mięsem" means "with meat" (pork, I'm guessing) and these are generally baked.
Another commonly-found food is the Gołąbki which is a stuffed cabbage roll filled with either minced pork or rice and smothered in a spicy tomato sauce. These go well with some bramborak, fried potato cakes, or picked cabbage.
For a non-threatening experience try Jacek i Agatka (open Mon-Fri 08:00-18:00 and Sat 09:00-17:00) at Plac Nowy Targ 27, just east of the old town, whereas if you want the full-on immersion complete with bearded drunks then the cafe in the market hall (Hala Targowa) will fit the bill perfectly!
Some excellent (Polish) Bar Mleczne gen is here...
|Piwoszek beer shop||101 Piw beer shop||Wagon club at the old Dworzec Swiebodzki||Academus bar||Spiż||Bierhalle on Rynek|